Not all the tailors of Savile Row were claimant of fame like Huntsman or Henry Poole or Gieves & Hawkes. Frederick Winslow was definitely not. He was living on his very few loyal customers though his sons were in favour of closing the shop down. But, Frederick even in his dream was not ready to give up on his legacy. Centuries ago Winslow family was one of the pioneers in bespoke tailoring in London. Pride of the past has been his invigoration all along.
“Winslow’s” is at the crossing of Savile Row and New Burlington Street, just opposite to the opening of Boyle Street. Generations ago the business was started by Frederick’s ancestor Henry Winslow in 1805. At that time “Winslow’s” were one of the very few tailoring shops which were still in Cork Street. Their shop shifted in Savile Row in 1819 in the same spot it is now. Being in such a prominent location, Winslow’s were known almost to all the people familiar with Savile Row.
Sir Joseph Banks was the first of esteemed customers of the Winslow’s. Henry’s dedication, honesty and proper understanding of customer’s need had impressed Sir Banks. In almost no time Henry became a minion of Sir Banks, who on his own accord bought him many customers of blue blood. In those days Winslow’s was the most promising of the tailors with elite customers from Royal Society and other walks of life.
David Blunt - the ill-fated poet and direct descendant of Anne Blunt, 15th Baroness of Wentworth, daughter of legendary Augusta Ada Byron, Countess of Lovelace, has been a customer of Winslow’s like his ancestors. With time glory of his family has faded away, financial abundance has come down to frugality but vainglory of nobility was still at its apex. Pride of legacy, Frederick and David had in common which had made them best of friends. Frederick’s shop was the place where he used to spend most of the day. When Frederick worked, he wrote poetry which might not see daylight ever. Rest of the time they spent discussing subjects which though have very little to do with the present but nothing with the future.
Since last Monday, David was not coming to his shop. Though he had said that he might visit her daughter in Kent, but Frederick was anxious. He had thought of calling him. But, to Frederick’s joy, in the afternoon David entered his shop, ‘where have you been, David?’
‘Oh boy! You must take care of your amnesia. Hadn’t I told you that I was going to Sarah?’
‘I know, but thought you might not have gone.’
‘How couldn’t I? It was due.’
‘How are they doing?’
‘Ah! They are living their lives.’
‘Did they like your new book?’
‘Were they supposed to?’
‘You are becoming stagy with age, David.’
‘Yes,’ he becomes restless, ‘I am getting old. I am two years older than you, remember? So, I must not be scenic, I must not write, I must not waste my money on printing these worthless sheets of paper.’
‘Settle down, Dave. Would like to have a coffee? I still have some in my flask. Let’s warm it up.’
David nodded. In few minutes Frederick came with two cups of coffee, ‘Here you go, Dave. So, you fought with them, didn’t you?’
David looked irritated, ‘You idiot, do you think I will fight with my daughter?’
‘Yes, you would if you had to.’
‘You are going beyond your limit, Fred.’
‘Oh! Dave, something of concern must have happened to you. You know, you have no one but me. Speak out.’
‘Hugh jeered about my poetry in front of her and she didn’t say a single word.’
‘So….’
‘What do you mean, Fred? Is it too much to expect such things from your child?’
‘No. But you must understand that we are not being accounted for anymore. It’s a pity that I have to explain this to you.’
‘Yep, sometime mind goes beyond logic. Leave me, how about you? How many new orders?’
‘Just couple of. Market is dry’.
David smiled, ‘It’s good to comfort yourself sometime.’
‘I don’t repent.’
‘Instead, you lie to yourself.’
‘Hmm. Are we going to Windmill today?’
‘Have you earned enough? I am short today.’
‘I have saved some.’
‘Then make it next weekend. I will have some by then, too.’
‘Books are selling?’
‘Yep. Around three hundred copies were sold in last couple of months. E-books, online, you know.’
‘I don’t understand how people can read books on a screen. A book is not valued until it is held in hands.’
‘Freddie, you will always be an old school.’
‘You are more than me, Dave.’
Next Thursday too olds were again having a good time at the Winslow’s. Frederick’s two employees, Katherine and Albert were about to leave. Frederick asked them, ‘Let me know what have you thought.’
‘I have nothing to think,’ replied Katherine, ‘don’t know about him,’ she indicated Albert.
Frederick looked at Albert. Albert shrugged his shoulders before leaving the shop. Katherine said, ‘Don’t worry Frederick. It will be all right.’
As she also left the shop David asked, ‘What’s brewing?’
‘Anthony has offered them better wages.’
‘You mean that Blake & Sons?’
‘Hmm. He had came day before yesterday, to see if I were interested in selling my shop. When he found me stubborn, he offered them better wages to make me crippled.’
‘What on this earth made him to think that you would give up?’
‘My sons. They have no attachment to the legacy they have inherited, for I am not like those glamorous shops.’
‘You can’t blame them, Freddie. Time is changing everything too fast. We have become inessential. Everything is measured by how much you earn, be it poetry or tailoring.’
‘Yes,’ Frederick sighed, ‘we….’
He couldn’t finish as a young gentleman entered the shop. Frederick promptly informed him, ‘We are already closed, Sir.’
‘Your sign is otherwise though, Sir.’
‘I was about to turn it. However, since I didn’t do it you are welcome to Winslow’s. How may I be of any service to you?’
‘Your shop is quite archaic in look.’
‘I hope you are not here to appraise my shop, Sir.’
‘Oh! Not really. But I couldn’t help myself.’
‘That is so kind of you.’
All were silent until the young one spoke, ‘Well, I want to get myself a new suit.’
That is a wonderful idea, Sir. What kind of suit are you looking for?
‘I want a Mohair Herringbone, hand tailored.’
‘Wonderful choice you have. But hand tailored Herringbone can cost you good.’
‘I know. Tell me Sir, how good can it cost?’
Frederick was not prepared for such confident a tone from the young gentleman. He tried to estimate the cost and quote with his mark up, but ended up with an ambitious price, ‘Four thousand five hundred with forty percent in advance.’
David gave him an astounded look. The customer smilingly kept staring at him. Frederick was almost repentant for losing the customer. But to his and David’s utmost surprise he said, ‘Why not for a hand tailored Mohair Herringbone? But to your disappointment sir, I have not that much of cash with me today. I will be here tomorrow, same time.’
He was about to leave the shop keeping two olds flabbergasted when Frederick asked, ‘May I know who just placed such a profuse order?’
‘I am William Banks.’
‘Have a nice evening, Mr. Banks.’
No sooner Mr. Banks left he shop David said, ‘He is not going to come back.’
‘He will, Dave, he will.’
‘How do you know?’
‘I know the eyes of my customers’.
‘Do you know that you have quoted more than Gieves & Huntsman?’
‘Might be, but that is what a hand tailored must cost.’
‘Hmm.’ David paused for a moment, ‘If your customer comes back tomorrow you will be rich and I will not have to spend what my books have fetched.’
‘Count on me for dinner and drinks tomorrow.’
‘You are the only one whom I can count on.’
‘Let’s go home, buddy.’
‘Yeah. I will be early tomorrow to see your customer the cordon bleu.’
As an implied tradition Winslow family have dinner together. Frederick’s wife has passed away couple of years ago. His two sons – Jonathon and Jacob lived with him with their families. During the dinner that evening Jonathon asked his father, ‘You have refused the Blakes?’
‘Yes.’
‘How much have they offered?’
‘Isn’t that immaterial?’
‘Splendid! Have you calculated the debts lately?’
‘We have nothing left,’ Jacob supported his elder, ‘apart from this and the land in Cornwall. Blakes’ offer could save us from selling these in near future.’
‘Why don’t you two, try to do something good to save us all? Why are you so much interested in selling the shop rather than earning good?’ Frederick was irritated.
‘Dad, we are earning what we can,’ replied Jonathan, ‘at least we are not piling ups debts on our children.’
‘Jony, stop this,’ said Michelle – Jonathan’s wife.
‘The shop you are so impassioned to sell out, gave me all I needed to bring you so up that you can think of selling her out.’
‘We wouldn’t have thought of that hadn’t you raised the debt beyond breathing level,’ replied Jacob with anger.
‘Jacob, let’s have the dinner in peace,’ said Alice – Jacob’s wife.
‘For your obstinacy we will have to sell everything we have,’ alleged Jonathan in a cold voice.
‘No, we won’t.’
‘How are we planning to pay that off then?’ Michelle asked.
‘I am getting good orders.’
‘Oh! That’s good news,’ said Jacob, ‘how many have you bagged?’
‘Today I have got one.’
‘With just one order you are planning to pay your debts off?’ Jacob chuckled.
‘Not all of it, but I can start by paying a good share.’
‘Is it a jackpot?’
‘Four thousand five hundred pounds,’ Frederick said slowly and dramatically.
There was a pin-drop silence for few moments before Jonathan asked, ‘What’s the order?’
‘A hand tailored Mohair Herringbone.’
‘Have you taken any advance?’
‘He will come tomorrow with it.’
‘He hasn’t yet paid the advance. Wonderful! We are going to pay the debts off with nothing in hand. Can anyone tell me a better story?’
Controlling his anger Frederick said in a perspicuous voice, ‘He is coming tomorrow with forty percent advance.’
Jacob said in a satirical tone, ‘Though he has lost the plot let’s keep our fingers crossed.’
Next morning Frederick paid the wages of last two weeks to Katherine and Albert. Albert asked in his usual indifferent tone, ‘Have you earned any fortune?’
‘The fortune will come in the evening.’
‘What the hell does that mean?’
‘After you left yesterday, a gentleman came to order a hand tailored Mohair Herringbone.’
‘Hand tailored? Oh! But how is that a fortune?’
‘I have quoted four thousand five hundred with forty percent in advance.’
‘What?’ Katherine asked in an almost screaming voice.
On the other hand, Albert remained calm as usual, ‘Has he paid you the advance?’
‘He will come this evening to place the order with the advance.’
‘And you are celebrating on expectancy?’
‘Albert,’ Katherine protested in a scolding tone, ‘can’t you be positive at least once?’
‘I am old enough to leave in dreams. However, thank you Frederick.’ He went inside the shop.
‘Sometime he becomes so unbearable,’ complained Katherine.
‘It’s not his fault, Kathy. I could never been a good employer to him. Yet he has been loyal to me for more than forty years now. He has been though ups and downs with me.’
‘Do you really think the gentleman will come back?’
‘Of course he will, Kathy. Don’t you worry.’
‘I am worrying about you, Frederick. You have been through too many take-ins.’
‘Those are part of life, Kathy. On the other hand I have you, Albert and David with me. What more one need in a life?’
David entered the shop earlier than his usual time as he had promised, ‘I am in time, I hope.’
‘Of course you are. In fact, you are even earlier than your time.’
‘You know Fred I was too impatient to be at home,’ his eyes were glinting in joy as if the fortune was his own, ‘your biggest order in probably, how many, fifteen years.’
‘You know it better than me, dear old friend. It has been almost fifteen years since I have tailored a Mohair Herringbone by my own hands.’
‘I feel you Fred. So many evenings you have spent awaiting such an order, only I know. But, honestly Fred I am still dodgy about it.’
‘Do you remember my birthday, Dave?’
‘How can I forget that? It’s 24th September.’
‘And which year it was?’
‘1941?’
‘No, Dave, you forgot. I was born on 24th September, 1940.’
‘Yes, yes, I remember. The day Savile was bombed.’
‘Yes, Dave. My entire family, including my parents had considered me as the lame duck. But I have walked seventy five years now on this earth. I have carried our legacy forward on my shoulders.’
‘Yes, you have,’ Dave agreed, ‘and you will as long you live.’
Albert was ready to leave as his scheduled hour but Kathy didn’t. Frederick asked whether she wouldn’t be leaving.
‘Of course not Frederick, I don’t want to miss the moment.’
‘You have always been such nice. But tell me, aren’t you suspicious about it?’
‘How can’t I be? We haven’t had such an offer in years.’
‘You are excited.’
‘Shouldn’t I be, Frederick? I have through all the ups and downs of Winslow’s. Yes, I am excited.’ After a pause of few moments she asked, ‘shall I arrange some coffee for him?’
‘That’s a good idea. What do you say, Dave?’
‘She is right; something must be arranged for such a vendee.’
Frederick asked Katherine, ‘Kathy take some money from the drawer and arrange coffee and some pastry for him.’
‘Frederick, coffee will do. I won’t bring anything else.’
Around same time as previous day the gentleman entered the shop. David and Frederick exchanged glances. Katherine greeted him, ‘Welcome to Winslow’s Mr. Banks.’
‘Good evening, Madam. Didn’t see you yesterday?’
‘I had left early, sir.’
He smiled and turned to Frederick, ‘So sir, here I am. Now if you please can I place the order?’
‘Certainly, sir! We were in fact waiting for you.’
‘Oh! You were quite confident that I would be coming, Weren’t you?’
‘I certainly was for there are not many people who understand true value of and even fewer who actually know the art of hand tailored Mohair Herringbone. When you left the store last night you knew that you have come to the right place. Didn’t you?’
‘Let me introduce myself, lady and the gentlemen, I am William Banks, descendant of the family of Sir Joseph Banks,’ he looked at Frederick, ‘we know you for more than two centuries.’
The smile in Frederick’s face was a smile of triumph. Triumph over all the humiliations he received all these years from his sons, his relatives. What more one could expect for carrying proud legacy unwaveringly? Conciliating his enjoyment, his emotions he said, ‘I am so glad to have someone form Banks family after so many years. But I had heard your family had moved to United States.’
‘Yes, some members of our family had. But I came back last year for my business.’
‘That is a wonderful decision you have made. There is no equal of your own land. You are the families who had built today’s England.’
Katherine intervened, ‘how do you like to have your coffee, sir?’
‘Oh! That’s so nice of you…’
‘It’s Katherine.’
‘I like to have it with cream, Katherine.’
‘Sure sir. I will bring it right away.’
As she went to bring his coffee he said, ‘So Mr. Winslow shall we?’
‘Yes sir,’ he approaches him to take all the measurements and specifications, ‘how would you prefer it Mr. Banks, single breasted or double breasted? In my opinion, Herringbone’s true beauty is when it is double breasted with three buttons.’
‘I can’t argue with the master. Double breasted with three buttons it will be.’
‘How about the lapels?’
‘You are the best one to answer your question.’
‘With your height and broad shoulders notched ones will be good.’
‘I leave it to you for keeping faith upon Winslow’s has been our tradition for generations.’
‘You are so magnanimous, Mr. Banks. One thing I can promise you that we will not have to repent for honouring your family tradition. But, you must be having a choice for the shades.’
‘I want to have a look at your catalogue.’
‘Sure.’
He was taking all the measurements while Katherine comes with the coffee, ‘Here you are, sir.’
He took the cup and sipped, ‘Ah! Exactly what I was expecting. Thank you so much, Katherine.’
Finishing his job Frederick went behind his desk to prepare the bill, ‘I know your name sir, but I need your address and number.’
Giving his address he took out a bundle of notes and was about hand that over to Frederick, ‘Here is the advance, eighteen hundred.’
‘Before that you need to choose the shades,’ saying so he handed over him the catalogue.
William chose a shade with white stripes at a regular interval on the herringbone pattern of light black and grey.
‘Elegant choice you have,’ Frederick pointed out.
‘I just want you to ensure the delivery.’
‘Considering orders in progress I can deliver it you within a fortnight.’
William smilingly said, ‘Fair enough. Now, here is the advance.’
Taking the money Frederick handed him over the receipt for advance and order specifications. As he was about to put the money in drawer William said, ‘Please count it Mr. Winslow.’
‘As you have your faith upon me, I have mine upon you.’
‘I insist.’
‘As you say.’
No sooner he finished counting William bid them night.
David being observant and silent for so long said, ‘You made it, old fellow.’
Frederick smiled, ‘We are going to celebrate at windmill tonight,’ and he asked Katherine, ‘Will you be joining us, Kathy.’
‘Not today, Frederick. Philip will be waiting at dinner for me.’
‘Well then, let us call it a day.’
Frederick ordered one pork and pickle for them and Côtes du Rhône St-Esprit Delas. That delicacy a favourite of them both consisted of Ham hock and black pudding Scotch egg, pork and apple sausage roll, Cornichons, hand raised pork pie and piccalilli. They have always been sharing the dish for years – one by two. And they never believed that there can be any better wine than savoury and elegant Côtes du Rhône St-Esprit Delas.
David was not surprised by such lavish order yet he said, ‘You are being emotional today.’
‘If I am not being emotional today then what my emotions are for?’
David smiled, ‘You are going to do all by yourself, aren’t you?’
‘Nobody knows me better than you Dave. I am going to Cornwall tomorrow, early in the morning. You must be ready by 6.’
‘We can go to Hampshire. You can get good mohair there, too.’
‘Not like Cornwall. I need kid mohair and some fine wool to blend for the suit.’
‘You have already sketched all,’ David took a sip from his glass of Côtes du Rhône St-Esprit Delas and almost instantly his skaldic self spoke, ‘true art always takes you to its origination. With the first sip of Côtes du Rhône I envision the banks and valley of Rhone, unmeasured and never ending vineyards, effulgent with colours of the grapes. When the breeze blows strong they oscillate in the merriment for being chosen as the principal ingredient of the most primitive of incentives man had discovered. You know Fred it’s not just an intoxicating drink. It’s an art. Milk of human kindness the farmer picks the grapes and vintner chooses those with, absorbs oppression and dejection no sooner it touches your palate. The truth is any work having a human touch in it can excel to art. But, the greater truth is that excellence is measured in terms of financials. The day business took over art and science humanity had stumbled. The tragedy lies in the inevitability of this agreement.’
‘You are so unerring, Dave. Works of those big shops are gorgeous than mine by far, but they don’t know about that touch, about the feeling that is being put in the piece. Mohair coming from an angora kid is perfect for herringbones. Your eyes and fingers should be experienced enough to choose the right washed and opened mohair. Then the pattern of the weave that makes it special. Herringbone is just not a weave, its art. In true herringbone the twill at certain point slants in opposite directions from the float of one thread. Blending these opposite directions with perfect precision is that adeptness which stands you apart from the lot. He sighed, Bespoke is not about doing what customers say, neither is it about customising according to your client’s need. Essence of bespoke tailoring is lost when you become just an underling tailor. It is about to guide your client with your experience, expertise, knowledge and understanding of clothing. You must work as a guide, a consultant, an artist. When your passion and love blends with skill it creates a masterpiece. Every time he wears the suit he will think of the Angora goat who has sacrificed its mohair for him, he will feel the hands of the artist that has turned such inanimate wools into such a masterpiece. He may not come back to you, but that is not an artist should desire for. I could have lived a lavish life have I had swum with the tide. But look at me, I remained the indolent who never thrived.’
‘At least, you have not compromised,’ said David, ‘probably compromising is what time demands from you. In fact, if you see Fred, our lives are full of series of compromises. Each of us has to compromise for one thing or the other. But compromise resolves to defeat when it compels you to deny truth, deny origin.’
Frederick’s family was happy and excited about the order when they came to know about the receipt of advance amount. The brothers decided to be at the shop on the date of delivery. Net profit from such an offer can settle many issues, besides bringing new rich customers. They wanted to witness the moment.
For an artist each of his works is a masterpiece. But, there is always one work which becomes the artist’s identity. Art and artist become completing to each other. One becomes nonexistent without the other. By this marriage both the art and the artist attains immortality. Frederick devoted himself completely to this new order. He had to honour the faith of two centuries that had been kept upon his legacy, he had to prove he was righteous to grapple his tradition against all adversities; he had to establish that glamour cannot defy art.
On that special day the shop was crowded with Frederick’s two employees, two sons and David. Mr. Banks was punctual. Frederick introduced to him to everyone present. After exchanging courtesy he asked, ‘I am impatient to try it.’
‘Of course you are sir,’ replied Frederick, ‘Kathy will you please bring the suit?’
Kathy bought the suit. Frederick took the suit out of the suit bag and displayed it to Mr. Banks. He looked on to that for few moments before Frederick said, ‘Try it, sir.’
In front of the mirror he put the jacket on and kept staring to his own self in the mirror. After few moments he said, ‘When I read about Winslow’s in our family journals I had thought my ancestors had been overwhelmed by the services of your ancestors. All seemed to me exaggerations for it was hard to believe that some one of Sir Joseph Bank’s status was so expressive about a tailor. Don’t misunderstand me sir for my thoughts. But I am glad that you have proved me wrong. I am glad that I had come to you.’
Frederick looked at David with that victorious smile, which David returned with the smile of true admiration. Frederick then turned to his satisfied customer and said, ‘We are glad that we have been able to serve to your expectation.’
‘You have exceeded my expectation Mr. Winslow,’ he put the suit off, ‘Will you please pack this for me.’ Handing over the jacket to Frederick took out his wallet to pay rest of the amount, ‘I have to pay twenty seven hundred, isn’t it?’
‘You are right sir,’ replied Frederick.
Frederick was turning towards inside of the shop while William said, ‘Sir Joseph had described Winslow’s as artists of tailoring. I am sure he would have been proud of his judgments could he see this suit.’
‘You are too generous with your words of praises,’ Frederick went inside and came back after few minutes with a nice suit bag and an envelope having Winslow’s logo printed on it.
Frederick handed over the suite bag and the envelope to William, ‘Here are you sir.’
William asked him curiously about the envelope, ‘What is this?’
‘I have kept the cost of it including two weeks wages of my two fellow colleagues. Please count it sir; it must be thirty one hundred,’ Frederick said with a smile of satisfaction.
All but David in the shop were trying their best to understand what did happen. After few moments of shocked silence William said, ‘What do you mean?’
‘This money will be abjection to the word of praises you have showered upon Winslow’s.’
Jonathan hurriedly intervened, ‘Please do not mind his words sir. Age is playing tricks on him. May I accept the envelope?’
‘No,’ Frederick protested resentfully, ‘you will not.’
‘Mr. Winslow this is the price you deserve,’ said William.
‘You have already paid off what Winslow’s deserves.’
William banks insisted him several times but to vain. Albert left the shop in umbrage. Katherine was too blank to say anything. Both the brothers were about to leave when David spoke, ‘Mr. Banks you just said that this suit is a piece of art. So let me tell you this sir, true art is always priceless. The price you pay for it is the price of your pride.’
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