Author’s  Note

Throughout my adult life, I served as a naval officer. Earning my sea legs in 1979, I spent years traversing the oceans, sailing through calm, storm, and every challenge in between. With several key appointments at sea, including the command of three frontline warships, I earned the moniker of an ‘old sea dog’.

There is a saying: you can take a sailor out of the sea, but you cannot take the sea out of a sailor. Even in retirement, I still feel the pull of the salt air. Despite those endless years at sea, my heart has always belonged to the mountains. It is an affection rooted in my school days at Sherwood College, Nainital. This fondness eventually brought me back to the hills, where I settled in a cottage named ‘Crow’s Nest’ in the Kumaon region. The name, inspired by its panoramic mountain views, preserves my nautical connection.

Joining the Indian Navy had promised adventure and the opportunity to see the world, a promise it certainly fulfilled. I have set foot in 49 countries and lived abroad for extended periods. The orderliness and routine of life overseas stood in stark contrast to India’s ever-changing, vibrant chaos. These journeys broadened my perspective but they also made me reflect on all that I had missed by not exploring India itself—a land alive with tradition, family bonds, and a unique blend of the ancient and the modern.

Motorcycling has always been my passion. They say you grow old when your memories outnumber your dreams. At the age of 65, I still had dreams to chase. An idea began to take shape. It was to ride a motorcycle across all 34 states and union territories of mainland India. I decided not to include the island territories of Lakshadweep and Andaman & Nicobar, having already visited them often during my naval career. This cross-country ride would test whether the ‘sea dog’ could adapt to land just as well as he had to the open sea. It would be my journey from Mare Liberum[1] to Terra Firma[2].

A key part of this adventure was the chance to reconnect with friends from the 56th Course at the National Defence Academy (NDA), as well as naval colleagues. Naturally, the journey was dubbed the Chhappan Miley Yatra[3]. It also offered an opportunity to revisit places after decades and witness firsthand the changes brought by time.

I did encounter my share of detractors, who were convinced that such an undertaking was too risky for someone my age. For this journey to succeed, I needed to ignore their doubts, trust myself, and remember that life’s greatest joys often come from achieving what others say you cannot. Sometimes, opportunity is born of audacity. Fortunately, my wife Sunanda and children, Natalia and Samir, were not among the doubters.

Their steady support allowed me to embark on this long-dreamed adventure.

The philosopher St. Augustine[4] said, “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” There is immense value in exploring diverse cultures and ways of life. While people travel abroad to broaden their horizons, we must not overlook the richness waiting to be discovered within India’s own borders.

This book aims to share not just the landscapes and terrain I encountered on my cross-country journey, but also the rich history, deep cultural traditions, and diversity that make India unique. The true wealth of India lies in its people. It is a tapestry woven together by languages, faiths, and communities, from bustling markets to remote Himalayan villages. Through stories and snippets, including those drawn from my naval days, the book hopes to inspire readers to explore the country’s vastness and its rich diversity. It aims to encourage people to discover the wonders for themselves, not just on a motorcycle but by any means.

Capt (IN) Sunil E. David