One Rider. Thirty-Four Territories. 20,350 km of Adventure
Announcing Sunil E. David’s Across India on Two Wheels
What if, at 65, instead of slowing down, you decided to chase one of the biggest dreams of your life?
For Capt (IN) Sunil E. David, the answer was simple: get on a motorcycle and ride across every state and union territory of mainland India.
The result is Across India on Two Wheels, a remarkable travel memoir that chronicles an extraordinary motorcycle odyssey across 34 states and union territories—and, along the way, becomes a deeply personal exploration of India, its people, landscapes, cultures, histories and enduring spirit.
The journey covered 20,350 kilometres. It crossed mountains and plains, deserts and forests, highways and remote roads. It took the author through the Himalayas, Ladakh, the Northeast, the Deccan, the southern coastline, Rajasthan and countless towns, villages and cities in between. But the real journey was perhaps the one that happened within: a journey of resilience, curiosity, friendship and the refusal to believe that adventure has an expiry date.
When adventure calls, age is just a number
Adventure has been a constant in Sunil David’s life.
A former naval officer, he spent decades at sea, serving in key appointments and commanding three frontline warships. His childhood and school years at Sherwood College, Nainital, had already nurtured a love for exploration, the outdoors and the mountains. The Indian Navy gave that adventurous spirit discipline, resilience and a taste for challenges.
But retirement did not mean settling into a quieter life.
Motorcycling, an old passion, returned to the foreground. After a 25-year break from riding, David bought a Royal Enfield Thunderbird 500 and went on to clock more than 38,000 kilometres over seven years. Then came a bigger dream: to ride across every state and union territory of mainland India.
For this journey, the author chose a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450, which he affectionately christened the ‘Dark Knight’. And so began an adventure that would eventually take him across the length and breadth of the country.
The idea was audacious. There were those who believed the undertaking was too risky for someone his age. But the journey went ahead—not because there were no doubts, but because David chose not to let those doubts define what was possible.
India, one road at a time
Across India on Two Wheels is much more than a motorcycle travelogue.
It is a portrait of India as experienced from the saddle.
The book moves through spectacular Himalayan landscapes, the stark beauty of Ladakh, the lush Northeast, the deserts of Rajasthan, the Deccan Plateau, the southern and western coasts, dense forests, bustling cities and remote villages. Along the way are temples, mosques, churches, gurudwaras and monasteries; tea gardens and spice plantations; historic forts and heritage sites; rivers, valleys and mountain passes.
Every region reveals something different.
And yet, beneath the diversity of language, food, clothing, faith and tradition, David repeatedly discovers something constant: people.
There are old friends opening their homes after decades apart. Fellow naval officers and NDA coursemates reappearing along the route. Strangers offering directions, food and assistance. Roadside dhaba owners who become informal guides to the journey ahead. Local communities whose warmth turns an unfamiliar place into a temporary home.
The journey thus becomes a celebration of the extraordinary variety of India—and the remarkable hospitality that connects it.
The road has stories of its own
One of the joys of the book lies in its attention to the details that can easily disappear when we think of travel only in terms of destinations.
There are early-morning departures, roadside breakfasts, cups of chai, dhabas, unexpected encounters, changing weather, difficult roads, navigation errors and the everyday calculations that keep a long-distance rider moving.
There is the thrill of negotiating high-altitude terrain and the quiet satisfaction of an empty road.
There are moments of danger and discomfort, but also humour and nostalgia.
And there is the special relationship between a rider and his machine. For David, the Dark Knight becomes much more than a motorcycle. It is companion, confidant and dependable partner—one that carries him through some of the most demanding stretches of the journey.
The book also carries the perspective of someone who has travelled widely outside India. Having visited 49 countries, David realised that despite all the journeys abroad, there remained an enormous country waiting to be explored at home. His motorcycle became the means to rediscover that India—not as a tourist passing through, but as a traveller willing to take the longer road.
A journey beyond the map
The most remarkable aspect of this adventure is not simply its scale.
It is the age at which it was undertaken.
At 65, David set out to accomplish what few riders attempt: completing the ‘Thirty-Four’ by motorcycle. The final milestone came in Sikkim, where he completed his journey across all 34 states and union territories of mainland India.
By the time he returned home, the odometer had clocked 20,350 kilometres.
But numbers tell only part of the story.
The journey tested physical endurance, mental resilience and meticulous preparation. It involved changing terrain, unpredictable weather, rough roads, long stretches without fuel and the challenges of riding through both remote landscapes and congested cities.
More importantly, it offered time to reflect.
The long stretches on the road became opportunities to think, observe and absorb. The journey taught lessons in patience, humility and perseverance. It reinforced an idea that feels increasingly relevant in a world where we are constantly urged to slow down, settle down and play safe: sometimes, the best way to feel alive is to keep moving towards something that matters to you.
For everyone who still has a dream
You do not have to be a motorcyclist to connect with Across India on Two Wheels.
You do not even have to be an adventure traveller.
At its heart, this is a book about the courage to begin.
It is about what happens when a long-held dream is given a date, a route and a first turn of the throttle.
It is about rediscovering places we thought we knew.
It is about friendships that survive decades and families that make seemingly impossible journeys possible.
It is about the freedom of the open road—and the responsibility that comes with choosing your own path.
And above all, it is about refusing to believe that life becomes smaller with age.
Sometimes, it becomes bigger.
Sometimes, the most exciting chapter begins after you think the story has already been written.
Across India on Two Wheels is an invitation to look at India differently—and perhaps to look at our own unfinished dreams differently too.
Because the road is still out there.
And there are always more horizons to chase.
Discover Across India on Two Wheels by Capt (IN) Sunil E. David, published by Readomania. Coming soon!
About the Author
After his schooling at Sherwood College, Nainital, Capt. (IN) Sunil E. David joined the National Defence Academy, where he passed out at the top of his course and was awarded the President’s Gold Medal.
In the Navy, he was a gunnery & missile specialist as also a ship’s diver. During his career, he commanded three frontline warships, including a state-of-the-art stealth frigate. He also served in coveted appointments at Naval Headquarters. For his distinguished service, he was awarded the Vishisht Seva Medal by the President of India and was also commended by the Chief of the Naval Staff.
Captain Sunil David has an MPhil in Strategic Studies. He also has an armament degree from the former Soviet Union, a degree from the Royal Naval Staff College, UK and has attended the College of Naval Warfare.
Post-retirement, he has added to his repertoire 16 years of rich corporate experience. He enjoys playing squash and riding his Himalayan 450 motorcycle.
He is married to Sunanda David. Sunil and Sunanda have two children, both in the corporate world. They have been blessed with three grandchildren.
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